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scapulataf last won the day on June 28 2012

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About scapulataf

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  1. Is anyone a member at this place? Its out on Misener Rd. South end of the falls. Well, probably in to Welland. I had no idea this place even existed, except I happened to see a trap field on Google Earth a while back. I looks like they've got a Trap field, 100 yd rifle range and 3d archery? I'm already a member of Canadian Sportsman club in Fort Erie, but I'm looking for a place to shoot a rifle. I've noticed that clubs with rifle ranges seem to have a waiting list, and higher membership fees. What is this place like? Is there a waiting list? How much is a membership? Is if full of Yahoos and Fuds?
  2. Thanks gunner. Sorry for the lack of updates, I've been busy for a while and am going to get even busier in the next few months, so I haven't done much besides take it out shooting when I get the chance. For the time being I've just decided to keep it as is. When things quiet down for me and I get another gun, I'll start working on it again. In the mean time that'll give me time to decide whether I want to blue the reciever or just polish it. The barrel I'll be bluing, but again, not for a while yet. I just don't want to take the thing apart only for a couple hours before I have to put it back together again and so on, so once I've got another gun, maybe around christmas time or so, I'll be able to take it apart and leave it in pieces for long enough to really do something to it, and when I do I'll resurrect this thread and keep any interested parties up to date. I have to say that aside from a few small nicks, and the two cracks that I mentioned, the wood is in great shape, to the point where I don't think I'll do anything to it except a few minor touchups. I do have a question or two though, are all these fancy bore cleaners worth the money? I can get a bigger can of brake cleaner for less than the price of a smaller can of the various bore cleaners, and if brake cleaner isn't "solventy" enough, throttle body and carburetor cleaner probably is. Is it really worth it for the bore cleaner? Thanks again, and until I have more time to work on this thing, here is some gun pornography, though for some reason I just couldn't take a good picture last night.
  3. Took the receiver off the stock this morning and brought it to the shop at work. Got a few pics, but I'm stupid and forgot to bring a real camera, so its Phlip fone fotos today. First thing I did was put it in the parts washer and give it a good soaking and brushing with degreaser. I boiled (as suggested to use) some water with the tea kettle in the lunch room and doused it. Followed by a good soak in WD40 to displace the water. It sat for a while and I worked the barrel release back and forth. It only sticks now if I push it hard all the way to the left, but to the right its fine. Maybe now that its going to be used and oiled on a regular basis, it'll loosen up. After that I sprayed it with brake cleaner and then some penetrating oil on the moving parts. working the varoius things back and forth. Soaked it with brake cleaner again. I've been thinking of giving the receiver a light polish instead of bluing it, but haven't decided yet. The polish will be more maintenance than the bluing probably. After the brake cleaner dried I took the trigger guard off and put it to a wire wheel. It cleaned up the rust good and I nearly lost the tiny screw that holds it on the receiver. Then I put the receiver on the wire wheel and cleaned up the rust. Got every spot that I was able to, while avoiding hitting the springs with the wheel. I even chased the threads on the bolt hole that holds the stock to the receiver. After another soak with brake cleaner, I let it dry and got out the oil. I wasn't sure what exactly to oil but I tried to be intuitive. I put one or two drops anywhere there was a moving part and metal-metal contact. Springs, the sear and trigger. The rod the hammer pivots on I wish I had a long needle to put on the nipple on the gun oil bottle it would have been way easier than trying to drop oil from a distance. Again, crappy camera phone pics so its hard to really see what it looked like. The first two are after I degreased it but before the wire wheel work. The next ones are after I wire wheeled it. Oh yeah, the serial number starts with 52 not 59 like I mentioned above.
  4. Took it out trap shooting today. Didn't do that great but not terrible either I guess. First round got 7, second 12 third round 14. But hey, first time and its a 12 ga game and the sight at the end of the barrel is not there, so maybe all things considered I did ok. Gun worked great, especially the ejector. It was launching shells over my shoulder the whole time I was out. I still have to make sure to get the barrel release loosened up. If I have the time this weekend I was planning on removing the reciever from the stock, and bringing it in to the shop at work. Tell me if this is a bad idea or not: I want to soak it in either CLR or some mild degreaser to get rid of the rust which is only surface rust, followed by: water rinse (i know water + bare metal = bad) a liberal spray of WD40 to displace the water in the cracks, and then a generous soaking in brake cleaner to get rid of the WD 40. After that, depending on what someone with more knowledge on the subject thinks, I would put some grease around the springs and on the sear and trigger. Should I leave that part dry incase it makes the trigger too light? Or should I use oil? I picked up a small cleaning kit at Lebaron yesterday with some gun oil and a cleaning rod, brushes, patches etc... After scrubbing the bore with the bronze brush, and running a few patches through it, should I put a light coat of oil in the bore? Thanks again, I'm still meaning to put up some pics of it. Maybe when I've got it at work.
  5. Thanks for the replies here and below, Its definitely a model 84. It says it right on the side of the reciever, and the "0" that was added to most of the Cooeys was added after Winchester took over. The serial number is definitely legible, under the fore-stock, the side of the reciever and under the butt plate. Well, the first digit under the butt plate isn't legible, but the rest of the digits match the other spots where they are stamped. First two digits are 59 and I forget the others. I've looked online and according to Wikipedia and gunsopedia: "The Cooey model 84/840 [shotguns] that were manufactured before 1961 are stamped "H. W. Cooey Machine & Arms Company" on the right side of the action and the guns made after the purchase from Winchester of Cooey are stamped "Winchester-Western (Canada) Limited." on the right side of the receiver. Written records of serial numbers are not generally available. Some have suggested that Cooey did not use serial numbers, but many pre-1961 model 84s are stamped with serial numbers on the receiver, barrel (under the fore stock) and under the butt plate/shoulder stock. Dating the serial numbers remains a challenge for Cooey gun collectors" I'd still like to try and figure out what year it was made. Maybe 1959 since thats what the first two digits are...... Thanks, I've got some time and Sail in Burlington is relatively close for me, I might go and look at a few things there. Any suggestions on a quality kit? I looked at a few a while back but never saw one that particularly stood out for me, not that I'm an expert.... If I recall correctly, most of them had a bunch of different sized brushes for various calibres and gauges, jags, and ummmm, whatever the things are that hold the patches, but I don't think any actually came with the consumables like patches and oil. Thanks, you guys have convinced me to blue the thing! I hope I don't screw it up too bad. I did use some fine steel wool on the barrel, receiver, trigger guard etc, and it looks like just surface rust. In fact, it looks like the receiver was colour case hardened, or whatever they do to them. That wavy sort of bluey purple looking stuff. Should I or shouldn't I be bluing that? It seems like I shouldn't be, but its still got a bit of rust on it, I didn't want to scrub too hard. If I don't blue it, how do I protect that from rust? Just clean it and keep it oiled? Thanks Smerch, I'm looking forward to taking it out for some trap shooting (I know trap is a 12Ga sport), and hopefully by the winter I'll have done my hunter safety course and can get out next spring and put some meat on my table! I went at it a bit yesterday. Like I mentioned, everything locks up tight and there is no wobble anywhere The hammer has a good snap to it (no dry firing, snap cap). The only thing is that the barrel release lever sticks a bit when I push it all the way to one side or another. Likely as a result of age and lack of use. Its supposed to have not been fired since the early 70s. I'm going to take the stock apart from the action tonight if I've got time and a long enough screw driver which hopefully will give me a better look at the internals and a chance to clean them. Should I use oil or grease on the barrel release? I know a bunch of pellet gun guys swear by using moly based grease, the more % of moly the better, but this isn't a pellet gun so...... The wood is in great shape, once I cleaned the dust off of it. It has a small crack in the forestock that was glued and a couple small chips at the bottom of the stock that I'll fix up eventually since they're a bit rough around the edges. I could probably use the edge of a swiss army knife blade to smooth that out, or I think I've got some 1500 grit sand paper. Were they originally finished with linseed oil? When I get the time I'll post some pics. I didn't have my camera with me to post pics of the rust and dust, but I'll post some before I do some of the other work. Again, thanks for the advice.
  6. Got my PAL not too long ago and have acquired myself a shotgun. For all you old guys on the board, its a single shot 20 gauge Cooey. Pre-winchester buy out. I know they aren't worth all that much, but its a bit rusty and dusty, and I plan on fixing it up a bit and using it for trap and eventually some small game. Everything I've read about these things says that they're rock solid reliable guns, and when I close the barrel it locks solidly with no play or wobbles anywhere in it. I still need to get a legitimate cleaning kit for it, but in the mean time, I figured I'd take it apart, use a wet rag on the wood, and some fine grade steel wool on the metal parts to get rid of the rust including in the bore. Is that a bad idea? I've looked in the bore with a flashlight and didn't see any rust pitting. Looking around at the websites of some gunsmiths in my area, getting it blued would cost more than I paid for the thing. Now, thats not a big deal, since I plan on keeping it for a long time, but am I better off with a few thin coats of an appropriate flat black spray paint? Last thing, the chamber length All it says on the barrel is: 20 gauge proof tested. I've read that some are 3 inch and others are 2 3/4. It seems that most are 2 3/4 and I'm fine with shotting 2 3/4 inch shells for as long as they exist, but did they come in any shorter chamber lengths? For obvious reasons I don't want to shoot 2 3/4 shells if its only chambered for 2 1/2 inch. Thanks.
  7. I'd never heard of them either. They have a store at a similar mall at HWY 401 and Trafalgar Rd. Just outside of oakville. First time I went in there, I thought it was a store with a bunch of cheap made in india/china crap. Not so, or so it would seem. THey don't have many stores in North America but over 200 stores in Europe. The place is legit.
  8. I was there opening day. Picked up a pretty sweet 65l backpack on a deal, the guy who helped me out was pretty knowledgeable about packs from what I saw. A guy I used to work with had a job there for a few days, this was before the store opened, working in the fishing dept. He would have done well there, he took fish and wildlife biology at Fleming, worked for the MNR doing lake surveys etc, and had a job as a fishing guide up north for a few summers. Not to mention an all around avid fisherman. He ended up getting offered a better job elsewhere though.
  9. Well, I guess its not quite law yet. But I can't see it not passing. Though I'd like to see the fines increased from what seems to be proposed. 40$ for a walleye is probably a bargain http://www.oodmag.com/uncategorized/stiffer-penalties-poachers-horizon/ Poachers will soon be paying a higher price for robbing Manitoba of its resources, provided proposed legislation goes through. The bill, if passed, will be the first of its kind in Canada, said Conservation and Water Stewardship Minister Gord Mackintosh in mid-April. Under the proposed legislation, individuals convicted of an offence where fish or wildlife were unlawfully killed, transported, or possessed, would pay restitution above fines already in place, in an amount to be determined. It’s hoped the bill would be in place by early 2015. Restitution costs could range from $40 for a walleye to up to $4,000 for a white-tailed deer. Mackintosh also envisions costs would double for offences that occur in areas closed to hunting or for protected species. “Protecting our fish and wildlife for future generations is more important than ever and those who choose to illegally harvest and kill these animals need to compensate Manitobans for this loss,” Minister Mackintosh said. Rob Olson, managing director, Manitoba Wildlife Federation said, “The vast majority of hunters know and respect the rules and it’s great to see the penalties will be used to help replace what was taken illegally.” The idea has some support in Ontario, too. “The OFAH (Ontario Federation of Anglers and Hunters) congratulates the Manitoba government on the proposed legislation, which, in addition to existing fines, will directly benefit the resource,” said OFAH Provincial Manager of Fish and Wildlife Services Terry Quinney. “The Ontario government has been derelict in collecting outstanding fish and wildlife related fines. We continue to lobby the government to ensure that outstanding fines are collected and directed to the Special Purpose Account. Once the government succeeds in this, we would certainly support similar legislation for Ontario.” - See more at: http://www.oodmag.com/uncategorized/stiffer-penalties-poachers-horizon/#sthash.EZClWxzK.dpuf
  10. You should try a piece of aluminum of the appropriate dimensions. Strong, light and would take near a blizzard to take it down. Also aluminum is cheap. Try this place: http://www.metalsupermarkets.com/metals/consumer-guide/aluminum/ No minimum order. You could likely pick up a piece the right size for under 20$ The hollow tube with an appropriate wall thickness would be stronger than solid bar.
  11. My landlord told me he saw the cops and MNR down at Bronte a few weeks ago. And last weekend I saw MNR as I was leaving Queenston. As far as I'm concerned? Good. They should do this every weekend. Its also good to see OPP helping out with this, they should be ticketing guys for littering too.
  12. Yeah, you act like you remember them.
  13. They've never asked for my driver's license, but they have asked for my number, address etc. when I buy stuff there....... For returns and exchanges. This for clothing and fishing gear. Maybe the man is going to start restricting the purchase of clothing, fishing and camping gear and he's already starting to build up the file. "This guy has bought a lot of camping stuff lately, I'll bet he's going to commit some crimes and then hide out in the woods. Better send CSIS to his house to 'straighten thing things out' ".
  14. Took the morning off work yesterday and joined. Asked me if I brought a gun, I told them I had a pellet gun (non-PAL) in my trunk. After I filled out the form and paid my fees, they gave me a key. The guy introduced me to the few other members who were there, showed me the air rifle range and I got to shooting. Somewhere in there I was asked if I had a PAL, I told them I didn't but wanted to get it at some point. They never said anything more about it.
  15. You will go faster with high octane gas. Because your wallet will be lighter.
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