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Any Car Guys Here?


jordanl

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initially i would take my car to my grandpa or my uncle since they are car guys, but since my move in kinda outta luck. since im a student on a tight budget i really dont have the money to take it to a shop to get examined so im wondering if i can get some help from you guys, i have a standard 2002 mazda protege5 hatchback, it has approx 215000 kms on it, lately its been having this issue where if im idling the rpms will jump around, it will go from the normal idle at about 1rpm then it will fall to .25rpm and almost stall then it will jump to 2 rpm to compensate for the drop and go back to the 1rpm idle, and it will do this as long as im sitting there, it also makes it kind of hard to go from an idle to moving in first, as im starting to move the rpms stil jump giving me an uneven pull out, but once i get it to second and moving it seems to be fine, im just wondering if there are some small things i can try myself to fix this problem just some trouble shooting ideas, thanks guys.

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Do a google search for IAC valve. Its called the idle air control valve. They tend to stick or get dirty. Its a little plunger type valve on the manifold....either take it off and clean it with a tooth brush and some throttle body cleaner or replace it. Usually they just need cleaning. Hope this helps...

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123797322-How-to-Clean-Air-Idle-Control-Valve

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there should be a diagram under your hood, follow lines and look for cracks and or holes, other than that google is showing lots of possible issues and help, most common seems like IAC valve and vacuum lines. Hope this somewhat helps

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Let it soak in throttlebody cleaner for a bit....then use the tooh brush. Apply a very thin coat of oil on the plunger shaft before you put it back on.

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I'm having spacebar issues here.

Old Mazda guy here. THis sound similar to my 97. But yours is a newer one with a different engine. It seemed to be fairly common with some of the older ones back in those days, especially when they got up in their years, and KM. Is thecheck engine light on? If it is, scan it (you can get OBD2 code scanners pretty cheap ~50-80$, mine was 250 bucks about10 years ago, it might actually be thethrottle position sensor.

The other issue it might be, which was "the fix" for that problem, at least on the older ones was the gasket betweentheupper and lower intake manifolds.

Also try looking here in the3rd gen engine/drivetrain forums www.mazda3club.com/

or here: in the BJ engine or BJ general discussion forums. http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/

Both of these places have been around for 10 years or so and there is a ton of posts and knowledge there. You might evencome across some of mine if you look hard enough.

LAstly, don't forget to try searching before you post.

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I'm having spacebar issues here.

Old Mazda guy here. THis sound similar to my 97. But yours is a newer one with a different engine. It seemed to be fairly common with some of the older ones back in those days, especially when they got up in their years, and KM. Is thecheck engine light on? If it is, scan it (you can get OBD2 code scanners pretty cheap ~50-80$, mine was 250 bucks about10 years ago, it might actually be thethrottle position sensor.

The other issue it might be, which was "the fix" for that problem, at least on the older ones was the gasket betweentheupper and lower intake manifolds.

Also try looking here in the3rd gen engine/drivetrain forums www.mazda3club.com/

or here: in the BJ engine or BJ general discussion forums. http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/

Both of these places have been around for 10 years or so and there is a ton of posts and knowledge there. You might evencome across some of mine if you look hard enough.

LAstly, don't forget to try searching before you post.

actually yeah, my check enging light came on a bit before this problem started, if the problem persists and nothing i can do will fix it then i might try my luck at getting the car home and get someone that knows cars to work on it, i dont know the first thing when it comes to working on cars to be honest, thanks for the help

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actually yeah, my check enging light came on a bit before this problem started, if the problem persists and nothing i can do will fix it then i might try my luck at getting the car home and get someone that knows cars to work on it, i dont know the first thing when it comes to working on cars to be honest, thanks for the help

Your check engine light will come on with a malfunction. An idle air control valve will set a code. Once you have cleaned the valve real good, you could disconnect your battery for 5 mins to clear any and all codes. Your car will have to drive a re-learn cycle for a bit, but should the check engine light come on again you would be able to know for sure. I would then scan the code with an obd2 scanner ( good investment to have anyway ) about 60-70 bucks to buy a cheap one. You,ll pay that at a shop to scan it so may as well get your own. Im not a gambling man...but if I was, I would put money on the valve. If you google to find its location and what it looks like on your car...its an easy fix. Listen for any air leaks while your at it.

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well my last 8+ tanks have been from random stations of the side of the road in the michigan, and my car hasnt really been exposed to that in its 11 year span, so could that be one of the reasons perhaps?

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We have a sponsor here. Click on the Butler. Tell jay I sent you

Jordans in the Sault St Marie Cliff, but yeh I agree if anyone needs car repairs talk to Jay at the Butler if you want it done right.

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Jordan, I'd suggest making good with your local mechanic. Word gets around on good ones as well as bad ones. Start with oil changes, wipers, whatever small. Chances are the more he sees you, the more you'll benefit.

OR him $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ LOL

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I do all of my own maint. and repairs on my truck, never liked paying anyone, but the truth of the matter is I cant get oil and filter for the same price that butlers will do it for me..... and trout beads to top it off... Im going there for my next one!

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i wish i was able to do my car work, but never really had anyone to show me how they did it or how to fix common things so im kinda left in the dark, but after some playing around i got the car running to where im happy, but i need to clear or even replace my idle air control valve, when its not connected it runs fine, abit higher idle then usual but its steady, then as soon ass i connect the power to the valve it starts to get erratic on the rpms and stalls out. getting the to the idle air control valve is proving to be a challenge, the stcrews are on there good, and i dont have the biggest arsenal of tools to work with, but when i can get it out and clean er up il let you guys know how she runs, im also hearing what i think is a vacuum seal problem, not a big one, but that will be for a later fix

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The older cars , as pictured above, were so much easier to work on , and much cheaper to fix. My van is a 90 & I just bought a new washer pump for $25 and replaced it in less than one minute . I can replace all 8 plugs from inside on a rainy day in about one hr. lol ! Rear wheel bearings (made in Canada) cost me $20 each & took about 2 hrs to complete . They replace the whole hub assembly now ....4 to $500 approx to replace (crappy Chinese made) ....or if the ABS sensor is gone you may have to replace the whole hub again .Vehicles are like computers on wheels with all kinds of sensors , pollution & safety devises . The cost to replace air bags is nuts .....many vehicles have been written off from an accident due to that cost . They can sell a new car as cheaply as possible ......but they will get your $$$$ when you need to repair it . For older cars it may be worth getting some parts from a wreckers , worth looking there sometimes.

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The older cars , as pictured above, were so much easier to work on , and much cheaper to fix. My van is a 90 & I just bought a new washer pump for $25 and replaced it in less than one minute . I can replace all 8 plugs from inside on a rainy day in about one hr. lol ! Rear wheel bearings (made in Canada) cost me $20 each & took about 2 hrs to complete . They replace the whole hub assembly now ....4 to $500 approx to replace (crappy Chinese made) ....or if the ABS sensor is gone you may have to replace the whole hub again .Vehicles are like computers on wheels with all kinds of sensors , pollution & safety devises . The cost to replace air bags is nuts .....many vehicles have been written off from an accident due to that cost . They can sell a new car as cheaply as possible ......but they will get your $$$$ when you need to repair it . For older cars it may be worth getting some parts from a wreckers , worth looking there sometimes.

yeeah.. i wish i could get an older vehicle, originally for my first dar i was looking for an older car but my dad said he would only help me out getting a car if its 2000 and newer.. so i settled for my current car, but i would love nothing more then to get a good condition early 90's jeep, iv noticed the price difference also, just to repair my ball bearing, it cost me almost 160 without paying for installment.. luckily i have a few car guys in my family so they did it for a cup of coffee and pizza.

i think i just want to get a car that doesnt rely on computers and have censors that go faulty with the simplest of things.. i have my abs warning light on in my car also, theres absolutely nothing wrong with it and its been brought to get checked a hand full of times,

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Jeep and reliable do not belong in the same sentence! :lol:

(At least from my experience in owning two.)

really eh? iv been told from car people in my family that jeeps are pretty reliable and they keep there value pretty well, im considering trading my 02 mazda for a 95 jeep wrangler,

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Jordan 88-95 GMC/Chevrolet trucks are where its at...

fuel injected with throttle bodies, not carbs....

just change the oil and they will go forever!

Mine has got 340 000 km on it now and still runs like a top :P

more reliable than any new car in my opinion :)

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Jordan 88-95 GMC/Chevrolet trucks are where its at...

fuel injected with throttle bodies, not carbs....

just change the oil and they will go forever!

Mine has got 340 000 km on it now and still runs like a top :P

more reliable than any new car in my opinion :)

i honestly will consider that, in the 2 and a half months iv lived in the soo, iv came to realize a car just isnt practical here:P

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Mine is just 2wd ... and as far as gas goes, its not terrible but these prices suck!

I normally get anywhere from 16-20mpg in my truck (average on 1 tank) depending city or highway driving!

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