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Really Disappointed WIth Legend Boat


genec

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I completely re-did my 22ft StarCraft, it can be done.  Yes it's labour intensive, but it really isn't all that bad.  If you don't like the idea of properly setting a rivet using an air chisel and bar, the leaking section can be replaced with pan head stainless steel bolts with 3M 5200 and lock nuts.  Many aluminum boats have been repaired this way.  A great forum to check out is the StarCraft restoration forum on Iboats. I know yours is a legend, but the techniques apply to any riveted boat.  As for the foam, yes it's a pain but it comes out.  I used a shovel for breaking out large chunks and finished it off with a power washer. If you do decide to tackle it, once you repair the bad area, seal it all with Gluvit.  It's great stuff. 

Poke around that forum and you'll see that it's a very doable job. 

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Its interesting to see another person not happy with Legend boats. I have a problem where the bow of the boat where the trolling motor mounts broke inside as 3 of the 4 brackets welds failed. I talked to both Legend dealers and they were useless, I was told to take it into a welding place on my own and get it repaired. I took it in and they looks at the welds and laughed at the pitiful welds they did originally at the factory. I'd never buy one of their boats again.

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On ‎8‎/‎27‎/‎2018 at 10:02 AM, mooseslayer said:

I bucked all the rivets on my 14ft tinner and sealed both back corners with 3M 5200 as  I did that section. I used my airgun with an air chisel that I rounded with dremel to be concave to fit rivets and a friend on the other side with a sledge. Once you get going each one takes about 5 seconds. I wonder if you could get someone to weld that section from the outside. It shouldn't cost much to do it. I have had friends get aluminum trailers welded with side dropdown gates for their atv etc and only cost them a couple hundred dollars.

You can buy what they call a head maker to match any solid rivet you use. I work in the transit bus trade and have done lots of solid riveting. The chisel gun with headmaker on the outside and someone on the inside with a dolly or small solid block of steel. Do a few practices on some scrap metal and after couple times you can feel and listen for a good mash of the rivet. I would dip each rivet in 221 Sikaflex prior to hammering it for a 100% seal. Use aluminum anodized solid rivits not bare aluminum as they corrode to easily. Need any advice on solid riveting PM me...Ive only got 40yrs experience doing that. Much the same as aircraft builders.

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12 hours ago, deetch said:

We would be lucky to get 17 years on a new boat now the way things are built now a days 

Then why are companies NOW giving lifetime warrenties on their hulls - kinda contradicts your logic!!

i went to an aluminum boat after enduring thebfrustration of rebuilding the keel on a fibreglas Arkansaw Traveller boat 3 TIMES!! Now keel problems w aluminum!!

 

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On 9/13/2018 at 7:24 AM, Symmetre said:

Hahahahahahahahahahahaha ..... yeah sure. That was true once but the new ones are crap.

I purchased a new Lund this year and it leaked around the intake for the live well. Took it in they caulked it and sent me on my way. Next time out still leaking but not from the intake. The boat is now sold and I picked up a different boat.

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  • 1 month later...

Drilled out and replaced every rivet in the bow of my legend a few years back... Won't be surprised if I have to do it again in the next 3-5yrs. I'm sure if I only used it on northern calmer lakes as it is better set up for there would be no issues, but the abuse I put it through on lake Ontario I'm not surprised to be having these types of problems. I chalk it up as not a bad purchase more a case of not buying" the right tools for the job" 

Good Luck!

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