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Main line on Baitcaster


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Have a general question for everyone and I am sure this topic has been beaten to death.

My spinning set-ups are 2 x Med/Fast 6'6" rods and 2500 reels and 1 x Med/Heavy 7' rod with a 2500 reel and all three of these set-up's have 30lb braid c/w 12lb floro leaders

My baitcaster set-ups are 2 x Med/H 7" 1pc rods with 40lb braid c/w 12lb floro leader and 1 x Med/Fast 6'6" 2pc rod with 12lb mono (Tri XL).

I really like the feel and handling of braid (and the fact that it lasts for several years) but I feel that the floro leader is required especially in Erie or northern lakes - if not for the visibility factor but the ability to clear a snag without snapping a rod. I am using mono in my one set-up just because I have always used it.

Should I be looking at floro or mono for a main line instead of braid (PowerPro) - am I missing out on anything? I fish a lot of worm harnesses/bottom bouncers, jigs, crank bates, and topwater (a little bit of everything).

I know guys that use nothing other than braid and others nothing but floro/mono

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On spinning setups I use 10lb braid on almost everything 2500.  Plenty of strength for most fishing.  I have one 3000 reel that has 15lb braid for my 10’6 rod.  It catches salmon and trout in the Niagara river so 15lb is nice. 
 

Quality braid will not break easily.  Most 10lb braids won’t break under 20lb of pressure which never happens with fish around here (even in the Niagara river).   That’s why you have a drag.  I’ve used power pro, kastking, daiwa J braid and Suffux 832, and they are all good. 
 

I ALWAYS use a leader.  Generally speaking mono is good enough but I will use fluoro if fishing trout in clear water or if I need the line to sink.  Mono knots better than fluoro and is more abrasion resistant for river fishing rocky bottom. 
 

My mono leaders range from 10-25lbs depending on what I’m doing.  10lbs for most fishing but 25lbs for salmon. 
 

My fluoro is 10lbs for trout. 
 

On baitcasters I use 15lb braid but most people can’t cast 15lb braid from a baitcaster without causing a birds nest. I also have 30lb but the reduced casting distance and feel is significant so I prefer 15lb.  I don’t have issues with 15lb digging in to my spool as I don’t catch huge fish with that setup.  Again leaders as above.  I never tie anything direct from braid. 
 

Hope that helps. 

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Mono does still have a time and place. I like to keep at least 1 of a spin, cast and centerpin ready to go with mono. The rest are filled with various braids. The stretch of mono is nice for floatfishing especially light leads, larger crankbaits at times and for me carp fishing. Also handles better below 0°. Most everything else braid has too many advantages for me

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I've had a few "birds nests" this year . I have always picked my way through mono without losing line , but a braid birdy , no way , just cut your loss and re-spool if necessary . I find braid freezes up more in minus 0 temps.  I use braid on one 8' carp rod that has a lively tip to absorb the head shakes .( 8-10' lead 30# mono & 17# mono lead for the hook)

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11 minutes ago, Mbocco said:

There’s a good trick with braid bird nests..

 

I carry a chapstick and rub some into the bird mess and usually it will easily pull right out without damaging the line.  

That is a great idea !  I have thought about spraying the spool  of braid with Pam , it's very slick or maybe silicone would work better .

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1 minute ago, smerchly said:

That is a great idea !  I have thought about spraying the spool  of braid with Pam , it's very slick or maybe silicone would work better .


Problem with those products is those are negative fish attractants.  Meaning fish hate the smell of petroleum, silicone, gasoline, etc. So dousing your line with that may be a bad idea. 
 

A bit of chapstick is probably neutral. 

 

 

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For me I’m a tackle junky. I admit I have a problem. When it comes to reels and line types you can make it as simple or complicated as you like. For spinning reels I have a braided line fluorocarbon leader when feel is required and a hard hook set is required. I like a light fluorocarbon mainline for getting my LIGHT lures deep because it doesn’t float like mono or braid. 

When it comes to bait casters light line is your enemy as it will dig into itself when pressure from a fish or a backlash happens. If I am using a lure with light thin hooks like crank baits have I prefer a mono because it has some stretch and won’t rip out like braid with no stretch. Plus you don’t need as much pressure to set a hook with a thinner diameter. Definitely harder for a fish to throw a hook with more stretch and a smaller tear hole from the hook.  Now if I am using a thicker hook I switch over to a braid to help the thicker hook penetrate. If I am casting things like topwater I like mono because it floats. I don’t have any bait casters with fluorocarbon main line because I find thick fluorocarbon has memory and I don’t like how it performs. Light line fluorocarbon digs in to itself on a bait caster so that’s a no go for me. 
 

So for me I use it as an excuse to have many setups. Do I need it? Probably not but any edge I can have I will take.

 

Steve

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Very informative Steve !  I'm fairly new at this game so maybe in another 10 years I'll decide what line to use with so many variables in fish species, water conditions , temperatures , and baits .  

One thing that has helped me try to master fishing with braid is choosing the right rod for those conditions . As a carp angler I found using braid with a long mono leader (8-10') my old 8'  salmon (Fenwick) has a soft tip and helped stop the break offs or hooks ripping out using small thin hooks . Sometimes we hook into the "unintended" species and  have to deal with it by adjusting the drag and angle of the dangle .....

My "go to" ...mostly used line is P-line mono I usually get spooled at Peter's tackle (until Mrs.Covid appeared) ,been buying the larger spools since.

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14 hours ago, smerchly said:

Very informative Steve !  I'm fairly new at this game so maybe in another 10 years I'll decide what line to use with so many variables in fish species, water conditions , temperatures , and baits .  

One thing that has helped me try to master fishing with braid is choosing the right rod for those conditions . As a carp angler I found using braid with a long mono leader (8-10') my old 8'  salmon (Fenwick) has a soft tip and helped stop the break offs or hooks ripping out using small thin hooks . Sometimes we hook into the "unintended" species and  have to deal with it by adjusting the drag and angle of the dangle .....

My "go to" ...mostly used line is P-line mono I usually get spooled at Peter's tackle (until Mrs.Covid appeared) ,been buying the larger spools since.

I use braid on my carp setups to. With casting far distances, thicker hooks, tough rubber lips I find braid is required to get a good hook set especially at further distances. 

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29 minutes ago, Steve_Guelph said:

I use braid on my carp setups to. With casting far distances, thicker hooks, tough rubber lips I find braid is required to get a good hook set especially at further distances. 

Yes .... the braid would be better for picking up the slack faster . It wouldn't make much difference for bolt rigs as the weight sets the hook . By the time you get your hands on the rod the fight is on .  I have noticed some carp anglers keep some slack on their lines . I also do this as sometimes the bite is very light as the carp pickup and drop the bait , and I have set the hook when the slack line started moving out .....caught a few doing that .  Braid is also good in the fast currents like the 12 Mile  ...less drag on the line and I back the drag off a tad .

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