Bead Fishing

[GREYHAWK]

Just read where bead pegging/tying about 1.5 - 2 in above the hook prevents deep hook sets preventing damage to the fish especially if practising C & R. How does this method fair out when drifting the Niagara River relative to snagging old line, rocks etc. To me the exposed hook would increase the number of snags, so should one also consider including a small floater to keep the hook above bottom?

Would love to try this technique on my next outing on the river.

[blairwelsh]

I have been "Experimenting" with a new set up for beads!

lol

Similiar to a Drop shot rig (Where say the sinker is at the bottom) ... I have been putting the bead at the end, with the HOOK up top.

Problem is...

I have not been fishing in the "Day" enough to get any significant "Control results" lol

*beads dont work at night - and thats what i have been concentrating on.

Think about it though ...

Just make the rig so that the bead is the last thing on your line. Adjust the hook to be 1"-2" above the bead.

Hope some of you DAYWALKERS.... will try this and share some better results.

I think that I am on to something here!

[Seanook]

Not a bad concept Blair. I will be down at the river in the next week or two and might experiment a bit with that. Lord knows I can hardly afford to keep up my current 3 way bottom bouncing with pencil sinkers technique any more. The pool just eats em up. For every succesfull hookup it seems as though I am losing 4-5 sinkers. Less snags but expensive.

Might just go back to a straight line with some medium weight and some beads after my row bag. Also gave up using fluoro leaders a while back. I like to stay late and re-tying is a C#*t in the dark with cold fingy's.

Hmmm quote didn't quite take there

[blairwelsh]

Ha Ha .....

Sounds like your thinking is related to how many of the techniques of rigging has grown for the "pinners"

What i mean is this:

@$5-$8 bucks each for some of the FLOATS, about 50% of the tie up philosiphy has been driven by COSTS (loss).

Leaders are important for presentation (absolutely)... but i suspect a huge influence has been due to the not wanting to lose the floats!

I can feel your "pain" with the snags we get when bottom bouncing. Darn sinker rigs can start to add up after awhile.

Fish are mostly on the BOTTOM... that's the reality.

So it costs us more ... to get our presentations down there.

Doesnt matter what style we are using or species being sought.

All the same in principle.

Many guys when chucking spoons ... will keep em high ... due to the "Cost" of losing them to snags.

Best results are when you get em down deep right above the rocks and weeds. It's a balance game of results vs. costs of loss.

When throwing Rapalas etc along weed lines ... same things. You want to get right in there, but are also forced with the possiblity of losing a $10 + lure!

I can relate to the usage of "heavier line". Can save money in these situations.

Takes away a bit from:

- Natural presentation

- Feel and Action

but makes up in the prevention of break offs and costs.

______________

I've tried so many modifications over the years to meet somewhere in the middle.

Still have not got it right ... but keep on trying.

Even if you choose to keep things up top (Fly Fishing - "mainly") then you have to worry about trees, branches... etc.

Never ends!

lol

Hope we all find the "perfect balance" if it actually exists.

Got my lottery ticket for tomorrow!

lol

[Seanook]

my position on my presentation has evolved and de-evolved.

I noticed a spike in hook ups when using a leader during the daytime. Re-tying isn't much of an issue then.

Fishing at night.....I don't think that presentation provides enough benefit due to the amount of extra time it takes away from actually fishing.

Love bottom bouncing and it's versatility in fast moving water but I ain't rich.

I think buying a second rod long enough for this type of fishing and keeping a different setup rigged on it is what I'm gonna have to do until I find that happy medium is the way to go for now. at least until I refine a technique.

[ChefMick]

LOSS..sorry didnt want to quote:

I actually stopped fishing today when I ran out of sinkers (bad for the river too) ....actually not true I put on a cleo for a while o.O

I love bottom bouncing, there must be a pencil weight out there that does'nt get snagged so much....

anyonehave an opinion about these?

I spend way too much time re-tying this morning....kept my hook though all day lol

Just realized this thread was about beads....sorry guys.

[DaveC]

Just read where bead pegging/tying about 1.5 - 2 in above the hook prevents deep hook sets preventing damage to the fish especially if practising C & R. How does this method fair out when drifting the Niagara River relative to snagging old line, rocks etc. To me the exposed hook would increase the number of snags, so should one also consider including a small floater to keep the hook above bottom?

Would love to try this technique on my next outing on the river.

Most of the beads are plastic and drift off the bottom. It is true that the fish does not injest the hook too deep. Usually right in the inside corner of the mouth, but also sometimes on the outside corner of the mouth. You dont want it any higher than 2" or you risk the fish inhaling the bead and the hook could catch its eye. I run beads quite often, but mostly as an attractant. I peg it about 2-3" above and a roe bag on the bottom. When the water is super clear and fishing is tough is the best time to run single beads with super light setup. I have bottom bounced Queenston with beads and not had any more of a problem with snags then just bumping bags along the bottom. Some people run tandem beads inline with two hooks as well...I prefer not to do that, because if they go for the top bead they sometimes get snagged with the lower hook. Everyone has thier own choice....and the bead topic can heat up real easy....Experiment is the best way. So many colours / sizes. Some I have seen the size of marbles and my friend tells me work great

[mford]

LOSS..sorry didnt want to quote:

I actually stopped fishing today when I ran out of sinkers (bad for the river too) ....actually not true I put on a cleo for a while o.O

I love bottom bouncing, there must be a pencil weight out there that does'nt get snagged so much....

anyonehave an opinion about these?

I spend way too much time re-tying this morning....kept my hook though all day lol

Just realized this thread was about beads....sorry guys.

those are even more expensive, try making your own slinky weights.

[cdnfishguy11]

Poor your own sinkers

[toaster]

i dont think theres too many spots in the glen or pool that wont take your weights, i usually just throw spoons n quickfish as i suck at float fishing.

[canadadude]

When a trout hits a Bead it sucks into it's mouth like a vacume, the idea of pegging the bead is so the hook catches the corner of the mouth and is not sucked down the throat.

For bottom bouncing, I use 17lb-20lb Berkley XT for my weight dropper line so I can pull the weight out of snags, if your getting snags constantly your fishing to heavy and need to lighten up, I carry a bunch of different sizes with me from 1/2oz - 1 1/2 oz.

[Spoopity]

the glen has many spots for bottom bouncing just need to find the right spots and work them hard haha. last year i had lots of luck with minnow imitations in the glen mid to late December. a good way i deal with snags is use split shots instead of pencil sinkers. i can adjust my weight quickly and if i get snagged bad i can give a slow hard tug and whatever is stuck will slide off the dropper line. its also about $11 for 130 sinkers, usually only need 2-5 splitters at most. cheaper, fast, and more time fishing!

[pop-vlado]

Beads are becoming the new pink worms. Anyway, I always use a small hook with the bead (12 or 14) so you rarely ever get snagged. Especially when the hook is completely exposed, you should keep it smaller.

[jackz905]

i typically just tir a snap swivel on my main line hook the pencil to that then tie my leader line to the same eye on the swivel you get the odd line twists but other than that i dont lose to many weights

[kevin]

The bead below your hook will not work. With the bead above your hook, the fish strikes the bead, and upon hookset, the bead is pulled free and the hook slides up into the fish. I could see a dropshot rig being fished if the bead were somehow pegged right on the hook, but the setup you are describing sounds like t he bead is below, with the bare hook above? If a fish grabs that bead, and you set hook, you wont be pulling that hook towards the fish, it will be pulling away.

[DaveC]

Beads are becoming the new pink worms. Anyway, I always use a small hook with the bead (12 or 14) so you rarely ever get snagged. Especially when the hook is completely exposed, you should keep it smaller.

I disagree on hook size for bead fishing. I actually use bigger hooks. Mostly 4s 6s 8s wide gap ravens. I hardly ever lose a bead hooked fish. If you search trout beads....you will find all the rigging information.

[GREYHAWK]

Thanks guys for all of your replies. I certainly appreciate the info.

[steellee]

LOSS..sorry didnt want to quote:

I actually stopped fishing today when I ran out of sinkers (bad for the river too) ....actually not true I put on a cleo for a while o.O

I love bottom bouncing, there must be a pencil weight out there that does'nt get snagged so much....

anyonehave an opinion about these?

I spend way too much time re-tying this morning....kept my hook though all day lol

Just realized this thread was about beads....sorry guys.

These are way to expensive and still tangle in any dead line down there. Best thing is slinkies tied to just touch bottom not drag. You can dial it in perfect by how many shot you put in. I usually can bounce all day without losing a single rig. I still like the tap of lead on bottom as the slinkies are softer and a littl harder to read bottom but worth it.

[blairwelsh]

those are even more expensive, try making your own slinky weights.

This is EXACTLY what i "Will" be doing from now on, down at the MIGHTY NIAGARA (pool & glen).

Thanks Flumpy!

Looked it up online, and saw this good article:

Slinking the Straight and Narrow

If you’re not fishing the snags then you’re not fishing the fish, and slinkies will

keep you from cursing about getting hung up.

by Timothy Kusherets

If you’re not fishing the snags then you’re not fishing the fish. Ever heard that one before? I know I have and cannot repeat it enough. It doesn’t matter where I go or what type of river, stream, or lake I fish anglers are having a very difficult time with the premise. Either they are fishing snags and getting hung up spending a vast amount of time retying their gear or they’re simply so worried about snags that some anglers opt to fish as far from them as possible. If you fish long enough you’re going to lose gear to just about everything in the water; hopefully some of those times are due to fish. There is a happy medium that some fishermen are aware of but don’t do anything about while others are completely oblivious and don’t know any better. I’m talking about slinkies. Slinkies are weighting systems that will keep you in the water longer in and around snags without losing an inordinate amount of gear. It’s not perfect but it does look that way after spending hours a day retying rather than fishing. Learn what they are, make them, buy them, know when to use them, and keep a steady supply handy for those times when fish are abundant and snags are plenty. Another aspect of slinkies is to rig them to counter-spin; that’s right...spin, which will covered later in the article. When it comes to slinkies if there are other anglers on the water not using them you’ll know almost instantly, and they’ll know that you know something they don’t.

Slinkies are lead shot inserted into pliable parachute cord and sealed at both ends using a match to melt them. There are size ranges in shots and weight. It all depends on the water you intend to fish. If the water is fast and deep then your slinkies should be heavy to resist the current. If the water is slower and half as deep then conversely so too will the length and shot size of your slinky. Notice that I haven’t mentioned substrate conditions to match the size of the weight? If you intend to drift fish for salmon, steelhead, and trout then it doesn’t really matter whether there are boulders, rocks, or gravel. Drifting for these fish requires that you cover all the areas riddled with snags, which are elements that determine what size of slinky to use.

Slinkies are easily made at home with the use of a Plunger, Funnel, Needle-nose Pliers, Scissors, and Matches; I prefer to light a candle and keep that burning next to me. All of the tools needed to make slinkies can be purchased in any sporting goods store. Lay them out in front of you with shot place in a cup or small dish. Have the parachute cord laid out over the lap or on a tray, which I like to do. Sit next to a table and place the scissors, pliers, and candle on it. Depending on the shot size the best rules of thumb for weighting systems are on the 25 percent increase: ¼ quarter ounce weight; ½ ounce weight; ¾ ounce weight; and 1 ounce weight. In almost all conditions you’ll probably never need a weight more than once ounce. This is the basic slinky building premise. It’s easy to do and costs far less than buying them, though there are some merits to doing just that.

Purchasing slinkies could not be easier. They are in just about any sporting goods store that has a fishing section; there is however a tradeoff. They cost a bundle when compared to making them. Including the shot and parachute cord it cost about .10 cents to make a slinky at home, if you purchase the shot and cord by the container; so it's a bulk purchase. If you opt to buy them they cost between 2.50 and 3.00 dollars U.S. There are some benefits to purchasing them with one aspect of ease. It takes no effort or time to buy them. They’re easy to come by and last forever when compared to other weight systems meant o break away from snags. The biggest savings is time and whether it comes to procrastination of not wanting to stress about weights or you simply have money to burn, buying them does have their merits. It all comes down to what you want. Some fishermen I take out want to know everything while others just went me to point and say “cast there”. It all depends on personal needs and wants.

Now that you know about the options of getting or making slinkies it’s time to consider when, where, and how to use them.

Slinkies are meant to hug the substrate and “slink” over obstacles in the water, be it boulders, rocks, logs, drop-offs, and sometimes even around or over fish. It happens, not often but it does. The purpose of this weight is to allow the leader to make a natural presentation as it makes its way downstream. Depending on the size of the slinky and depth of the reach will dictate how well the presentation looks to fish. The rule of thumb for rigging up the weight amount is this: the closer to the bed you want the offering the shorter the leader should be. The closer to the surface you want the offering to be the longer the leader should be; of course you can vary this interpretation of weight by keeping one length of leader and increasing the amount of weight to suit your particular reach of water’s needs.

There are just a few more things to know before committing to buying and making slinkies and one of them is how to rig them properly diminishing the possibility of “line twist”. Line twist happens when there is not sufficient amount of counter spinning created by currents and how offerings rotate in the water; however, to counter that I propose, and use, a double swivel setup specifically designed for drifting slinkies. The double-rig setup is exactly as it sounds. Use two: one to the mainline, and one to the leader. Use a snap swivel on each. The premise is that not only will this eliminate any line-twist but also diminish the risk of the weight system from grinding on the leader and mainline, which does happen when using one swivel, whether it’s a barrel or snap swivel.

The setup for using slinkies is simple and truly an effective way to keep in the water. The more time you're fishing the more chances of hookups. It's simple math and logic. If you're not retying or trying to get un-snagged you're fishing. Make slinkies yourself and you save a vast amount of money; pennies to the dollar. Anglers all know that we get nickeled and dimed to death and it all adds up; this is yet one way to keep that money in your pocket.

These are what slinkies look like; simple right? It's a weighting system that will keep you in the water over 20 times longer than anglers using other weights where snags and boulders are found.

Using a double-rig swivel setup on my slinky I was able to spend far more times fishing than un-snagging. This Coho was one of four that was landed and released from 4:00pm, when I arrived, to dusk. Anglers later told me that they had pounded the water all day without a single hookup blaming it on snags in the water.

In almost all cases all it takes to un-snag a slinky is to wrap the mainline around the left hand, grasp the butt just above the handle, using the other at the reel, and making quick successive jerks with the rod out and in front of you. In seconds you're back to fishing.

Making slinkies at home saves a ton of money by comparison to shopping for them in sporting goods stores. 1) The Plunger used to gently insert shot 2) Shot that's inserted into the funnel 3) Cord that is placed at the end of the funnel 4) Funnel that is inserted into the cord

[ChefMick]

Thanks you guys (insert massive sigh of relief here)..

can't wait for a rainy day, me and my boy can make enough, to last the season.

[Seanook]

fantastic stuff. I was just about to suggest a diagram or photo. lol. I haope it is as helpful as described

[mford]

I try and recycle the old shots I have and find into slinky's. Most shoe laces have nylon in them and will melt closed.

I do prefer the pencil wieghts though. Mainly because the senstivity you get from it tapping the bottom. (as mentioned earlier in the post).

[canadadude]

Thought I would share slick way to run beads a guy showed me today, all it takes is a elastic band. What you do is run a loop through the bead, cut a small piece of elastic band , put the rubber through the loop and pull it through the bead, trim the rubber if need be and the bead is fully adjustable it slides up and down the line and the line will not fray or break on a toothpick it's a sweet way to rig and totally simple.It is by far the slickest way to run beads and is so totally simple!!!

[blairwelsh]

Great idea!

I have been using Red Elastic Bands ... but more as a "Stopper".

Not actually running it through a loop and in the bead.

Going to try this out.

THANKS

[canadadude]

Great idea!

I have been using Red Elastic Bands ... but more as a "Stopper".

Not actually running it through a loop and in the bead.

Going to try this out.

THANKS

Blair it is actually a stopper the loop just pulls the elastic piece through the bead, it disappears after,it really is just a slick way to pin a bead, but the elastic leaves it easy to adgust and dosn't interfere with the line. The loop disapears I should make that point.